One big family

Thursday 4th October 2012

Another late start as I took advantage of the hotel's fantastic wifi connection (so rare in Nepal) and turned my bedroom into a mini office!  Venturing into the midday sun my first stop was the bead market (or "Pote Bazaar" in Nepali) which is a fantastic little place with tiny alleys filled with shops selling all sorts of colourful beads.  I met my friend Razza who helps me make our fabulous pearl bracelets and necklaces by threading them onto pretty handmade silver clasps. At my friend Sushil's paper shop I was treated to tea and cake - my dear Nepali friends are always shocked at my terrible eating habits here - I tend to get totally distracted by work and not eat anything until the afternoon - and they always pull something out of the bag to ensure my hunger doesn't persist. As Sushil's wife cooed over photos of my Caribbean wedding, Sushil and I created the invitations for my upcoming wedding party due to take place in early 2013. A lovely local artist (Krishna) will be doing some of the artwork so he popped by to offer his opinion. 

I had a delicious evening meal thanks to my "dhai" (brother) Kamal, owner of the hotel where I have stayed every year up until now because he has leased it to someone else who has drastically increased the rates.  In Nepal people often call each other "bhai" (younger brother) or "dhai" (older brother), or if you are a girl "didi" (elder sister) or "bahini" (youger sister).  For me it is a sign of deep respect to be referred to as someone's sibling, but nepali people are a very kind and caring people and it is so lovely to feel like part of one huge family!  I have worked hard to learn nepali language which people here love, and as I help people in Nepal I am constantly being treated by others who appreciate what I am trying to do to help. Kamal is a perfect example of this, whenever we meet he treats me to food and drink and over the years has gone out of his way to ensure my stay is as comfortable as possible, everything from organising transport and activities to adopting a dog I found wandering in the street and took under my wing.  Having caught up on news over dinner at a small local restaurant we began a brief tour of Thamel with a stop in Tom & Jerry's bar (a must for any foreigner in Thamel), Faces (the place I discovered last night but this time I got to witness some outstanding dance moves by an extremely enthusiastic nepali youth). Our final stop of the night was a 'Dance Bar'. Nepalese dance bars are an anomaly. Ten years ago the only dance bars to be found we very innocent places offering mediocre food and overpriced alcohol but with the bonus of a dance show with people in traditional outfits singing local songs.  Over the years I stopped going as they became more lewd and tacky with dances becoming more and more raunchy, but under the current Maoist government this is illegal and once again dance bars have become an acceptable place to hang out. It is a very surreal experience to walk into a bar, be seated in a plush armchair and have drinks served by a waiter whilst nepalese guys and girls reenact elaborate Bollywood dance routines and local songs, but it is certainly worth seeing!

Razza in his shop

Sushil's wife enjoying cake

Local artist Krishna

Kamal is his bar

Me enjoying a cocktail